Norris of Mongolia

Recently I was reading "Lawrence of Arabia" while crossing Tibet and China by train, and I mentioned my desire to be like him to a fellow traveler while in Tibet. Hence "Norris of Mongolia" was the title John gave me, so I think it shall fit considering what I intend to do by horseback riding across Mongolia in the summer. I only hope I could live up so such a name.

I have indeed arrived in Mongolia, after the longest train and overland journey I have ever made. Its been an exciting two months, seeing the great sights of Asia, from the Taj Mahal to the Terra cotta warriors of Xian, China. Experiencing the mystical from Tibetan monks chanting in dimly lit room that smelled of Yak butter candles, or pilgrims prostrating themselves across the Himalayas. The worshipers cleansing themselves in the Holy Ganges river, the burning ghats of the dead. A simple Christmas caroling service in Beijing. All have been phenomenal to see, some giving a view of the culturally divine nature of these places I've experienced.

Its been long, and tough. My camera with all my trip photos and journal were stolen. I've faced lonliness, tests and trials as any traveler does. Its been worth it. I may not have my photos, but I'll always have the memories. The challenges that we face can only strengthen, make us grow if we let them. Why allow hardship do anything but refine us, make us better than what we were? Travel is a journey, never a destination. The destination is often ourselves, growth experienced and thus we become someone, something we were not before we began the journey. I have grown into much more than I thought I could on this journey, and the good news is thats its not over yet!

I arrived via train at 1pm on New Years Eve in Ulaan Baatar. The moment of truth awaited me as I got off, could I handle the cold? Mentally I'd prepared myself for -20 to -40 days... and luckily I was ready. My mustache froze almost instantly with my breath hitting it, but I was ready. Turns out its all in the mind. IT IS the coldest I have ever experienced in my life, but it doesn't actually feel cold. Bizarre perhaps, but it just goes to show much of life (and travel) is indeed all about attitude.

New Years itself was spent with an old friend and Mongolian veteran of the Peace Corps, Phoebe. We met up here years back on my first journey when my love affair with this country started, and the dream of a horse riding trip to its very edge came to be in my heart. We decided to throw up boiling water into the air to watch it flash freeze, something I'd only seen on youtube and heard about from Alaskan friends. It was indeed a sight to see. We went later to Mongolia's main square, Suhkbaatar and saw the locals shoot off their fireworks. It was indeed a wild rompus of sorts, but fun. Many drunks, but a cheerful spirit considering the crowd was all facing the paltry -35F. It was a lovely night, my screams of "I LOVE MONGOLIA" and "HAPPY NEW YEAR" mixed in with all the others. I think I was just as excited about Mongolia as I was that my beard was completely frozen solid in ice, that small ice-cycles were hanging off my mustache. It is truly a bizarre feeling, but for novelties sake right now I find it quite funny.

2010 will be a good year, as I watched the sunset set upon the decade of my coming of age, I smiled for the adventures that the era held for me. Yet I look forward to the ones to come, and resolve to be a better man in the years to come. To embrace this country, its people, its culture, its language. Make it my own, so that maybe, just maybe I will live up to a simple nickname that could be even more should I truly make it my own. NORRIS OF MONGOLIA.

Sad to leave Nepal

Nepal has been the definition of adventure for the past month. I started by arriving in Kathmandu to organize my grand trek to Everest Base Camp which was a fantastic success, after 9 days of trekking and an extra rest day to cope with the altitude (not to mention Diamox) I made it to the top of Kala Patar and then off to E.B.C. Walking into a dream long harbored in my heart was an experience I'd not had, and one I'm not going to forget. Ive also done a touch of white water rafting, mountain biking, and chilling out in villages to explore the countryside further by dayhiking. All in all I'm sad to leave Nepal, although Tibet will be great to see, this is the last of my hiking or anything outdoorsy really for some time. Mongolia awaits, but its averaging -20 so theres going to be alot of curled up nights reading and watching movies, alongside my Mongolian language studies and work of course. Its been a good trip, I've grown alot over these past days but look forward to what the future offers. Further on by train is the only way for me from here, I've still got alot of Asia to cross in the coming days!

Leaving for the true unknown

I know I'm in to suffer. I fly out in the morning for Lukla, 9 days of trekking will bring me into Everest Base Camp. I'm tired now, but more nervous than anything. Its going to be intense. Keep me in your prayers... no matter what I'm going out with my boots on. Life is either an epic adventure or nothing at all. I'm going to attempt to live a dream I've long harbored in my heart. Wish me well... I now walk into adventure in its truest form.

Reverting to the backpacker lifestyle

Since leaving the States, I've realized I've become a bit rusty in my travel ways. Upon my arrival in Europe, I discovered my French sucked so badly that the locals wanted to use English with me instead of French. Ireland was a breeze because I was with friends the whole time, but once back in Belgium my map and train skills were put to the test once again and I made it, just. I also almost missed my flight to India because I was 10 gates off. What was I thinking?

It gets worse though. I fell for the classic "Cant find your hotel" late at night from the Taxi guys who hooked me up with another hotel claiming to be the sister hotel of my original. I know that scam! Why did I get suckered? After that I started getting into the groove, although noticed a few oppses that could have been far worse. Not planning backpack laundry, not checking for TP before going #2. All things the tried and true traveler knows to do by instinct. I am rusty. Then again... getting back into the groove has been fun, after all travel is like riding a bike, you never really forget.

I'm in India now. Saw the Taj Mahal today. This country is bewildering, humbling, harrowing, mystifying, and exotically fun all at the same time. One moment I'm flabbergasted, the next I'm charmed beyond belief. The country is all one could hope for in the vibrancy of its people, so colorful, so lively. (Although I could do without all the touts and taxi-wallas) Nonetheless its a charming place that I've wanted to see for years. I'm glad I'm here, my only regret is that I dont have anyone to share it with. Perhaps I'll meet a new travel companion here, but in reality I do wish I had someone from home of this jaunt of it. Visiting friends across the globe on my way here softened me, made things easy, too easy perhaps. No bother. I simply realize how much I care for those back home and when the time comes for me to journey back that way, I'll gladly oblige.

Until then, the Himilayas await...

Seeing my country in an all new light

These past few days in the states have been surprisingly eye opening to me as I've visited several new spots within the USA. I realized that its been over a year and a half since I was last abroad, and in some regards I am really ready to go. On the other hand, I've seen a lot of my own homeland, whether it was my two trips to the southwest, California, living in Alaska and now the East Coast. I've hiked new sections of the A.T. in New Hampshire, dined on Maine lobster, see the sights (and smells) of NYC, and enjoyed the pubs of Boston. Now I'm about to leave with a new appreciation of my own home. Granted I've been cussed out already in NYC, but I've found a far greater number of good souls upon this journey. I've enjoyed catching up with many old friends, and even unexpectedly running into one in a city of 11 million at the NYC train station today. It all makes me realize that when the time comes, I do have a lot to come back to. Not all who wander are lost, and I certainly wander to be found at times. But I don't wander aimlessly from home either, and I have far too much to run from in this homeland of mine.

I prepare to fly out in less than 48 hours. It will be a great journey. Although technically its only starting, I feel like I've seen a lot of unknown ground to me so far.

The beginning of the Journey

Today is that day that always comes, the one in which excitement mixes with fear, the unknown creeps into ones mind, the sorrow of saying goodbye... and yet the thrill of it all takes over pushing the hesitation aside. I have wanted to do my grand trip around the world for a long time, and now it seems that that time has finally come.

I have been lazy with blogging, but now that I'll have unfettered time to travel and write, me thinks. Since my last post I returned to Kansas from Alaska, sad to go, and have been home almost 6 weeks. A strange feeling that is, but a good one that warms the heart. I purchased plane tickets to India with a quick layover in Europe to see friends, but truthfully the grand trip wont start nearly as dramatically as previous journeys have before, I have several weeks still in the United States visiting friends on the East Coast.

There comes a time in a man's life when he has to set off and find that which he cares for the most in this world if he is to do something epic in life, to truely change the world. I ask myself, what is the what? What is it that I'm truely passionate about? What cause do I really want to give my life in its service? What is the battle I want to fight for? What is that thing that will ultimately give me the direction in my life? This trip is in part a quest for determining what is the what. I know I do have direction of sorts, but it is simply to head into the unknown. How else could I grow? I dont want to be in love with the idea of Adventure, I want to love being in the Adventure itself. I have absolutely no plans for my arrival in India, I just have to be in Mongolia by January. This should prove to be one journey that shapes my character and life more than previous jaunts abroad, I can only hope I get out of this what I need to. So its a vision quest of sorts.

In the end just a wandering dusty traveler far from home in need of a good meal and a warm bed will find himself in many a new place hopefully better for all of it, with God turning his world upside down. We can only hope so.

So it begins...

I'm going to move to Mongolia!

As many have read I have debated for some time about what I will be doing post-Alaska. I had dreamed for years of doing the classic vagabonding around the world all through college, and now, here I am, doing it. I ran into a link on daveseslcafe.com for teaching English in Mongolia. After debating in my mind, I let my heart (and a facebook status question) lead the way. I belong in Mongolia. Wild places in this world, they are for me. I was born to travel, to adventure, to explore. Mongolia is still so very rugged, so very, well, Mongolian. Its the land of nomads and shamans, adventures and conquerers. Its my kinda place. I cant forget my first experiences there. How amazing the country was, the people, the landscape. Hell I can even wear a del (Mongolian robe) to work if I want and believe me my friend, I will.

Those that know me well will remember National Geographic declined my grant last year when I originally proposed to ride a horse across Mongolia and document nomadic culture. Now I have a better opportunity to do it. I will be moving to Mongolia in January to teach English for six months, by which time I will leave the comforts of the city to ride into the sunset. I will live with nomads, and with my six months in the country, I will have learned a descent amount of the lingo. I know that I was meant for great things and as far as I'm concerned, this is a step in the right direction. I will ride into the sunset in the land of the great blue sky. I will live out the stories I love so dearly of explorers and adventurers from a by-gone 19th century era of expolaration. I will not study anthropology any longer as I did in college. I will live it. On the saddle with the wind in my hair and the smell of unfettered lands in my nostrels, I will know the satisfaction of a life worth living. It is my destiny, my calling, my very love of life that draws me to such places.

I've only gotten started. This is going to be grand. Afterall, life is an epic adventure or nothing at all.

Joining the Polar bear club in the Arctic Ocean

Been a good last couple of weeks. I went on a trip to Barrow, AK this week. Northernmost city in North America. Jumped into the Arctic Ocean and did several swim strokes. It was cold. Very cold. Ice had just washed on shore from out to sea. Ah it was refreshing, and creepy that for over an hour afterward, I couldn't feel my feet. I wasn't cold though after a few minutes after drying off. Well I joined the club, it was 34 degrees outside at the time of my plunge, I don't know about the water itself. Okay, well did that, now I've swam in every ocean, but from now on I'll avoid the Arctic ones.

Went to the State Fair in Fairbanks, it was a good time. Ate weird stuff like fried pizza which is completely unhealthy. Not as bad as the fried twinkies or snickersbars... I declined those altogether.

A month and a half to go. Cant lie, as much as I'd enjoy teaching in Korea... Living here in Alaska has been so much nicer. Its the being close to nature that I love, the mountains all around me. I may very well not go to Korea, instead opting for Mongolia. Ah to ride a horse from my ger everyday to work. I could live that way. Still want to spend some time with friends and family in the coming days when I get home, so that'll delay me a bit. It strikes me odd that I will be away for so very long after this trip, I want to see everyone that I can.

Naked river crossings to celebrate my time in Alaska

With August beginning, it is only now dawning on me that I have now been in Alaska a little over two months. What a time it has been! Life was in such a rush as I left Kansas in such a hurry the night of my graduation to first hike with Craig, a quick return to attend Steve-O's wedding, and bam I was up here. Life has slowed down alot for me, although a bit too much in many regards. I realized I'd been rather lazy when it came to my hiking here. Sure I've gone on lots of jaunts into the woods, climbed a bit, and overnighted a few times... but this is what I've dreamed of for years! I gotta get out and explore it!!!

Realistically I've not been hiking enough here, I fixed that today by climbing Coldfoot Mountain which has loomed right over me all summer. It was a great hike, I summited in 2 hours 45 minutes after crossing the Koyukuk River. Doing it alone and not wanting to soak my clothes, I crossed the river naked save for my hat and shirt hiked up like a bikini. I must have been a sight to anyone that might have seen, although I doubt anybody did. Its the wilderness afterall. I've had some cold stream crossings here before, but man o man that was icy! I kept thinking as I did it of the weird nudists that have been hiking across Europe naked lately that I read about on the BBC. I crossed quickly, dried off, and hurried up getting my clothes on. Dont want to chance someone seeing that... I'm not a weirdo nudist. I just think its something funny to blog about at 2 am.

The rest of the summer I need to get out there, I love how the "typical view" changed as soon as I was up a few thousand feet. Its good to reflect like that and see the beauty around oneself in a new light. Gotta use up my daylight now... only got about 21 hours of sun a day now. Honestly its been a bit depressing... 24 hours of sun is so invigorating! I will miss that about Alaska for a long time to come I think.

I did think of a few good friends on this hike, reflected on those I miss back home. I look forward to raising a pint with them in the fall and straping on a backpack by their sides as I jaunt back into familiar territory. Chances are if you're reading this, that includes you. Cheers!

Chillaxin in the Arctic

I've been lazy of late to blog as well as to keep my journals up. Life has slowed down alot around here, the tour season has been down, so I've been working less and thus taking longer weekends for fun stuff.

I went into Gates of the Arctic National Park just outside of Anaktuvik Pass, hiking out of a native Eskimo village and meeting up with my pilot buddy Jason along one of the creeks. We had radios and GPS to coordinate our meeting up as he'd already been hiking out there. In poor visibility and compasses that are thrown off heavily by being so close to the North Pole, it still proved difficult to find one another in the rain. It was well worth it despite the rough boggy terrain that slowed me to a mile an hour. The scenery around there was epic, as well as the company we enjoyed... Mosquitos. I counted around 50 on each shoulder of mine, just at the angle I could see. I estimate I had around 500 swarming my body, thus making my bug netting jacket worth its weight in gold.

I also took another weekend in Fairbanks, doing the "city" thing. It was fine, enjoyed a good beer festival in the true German style, and had a little float trip with my urban Alaskan friends. It was rather bland to me though, as we passed houses and hotels all along the Chena river through downtown Fairbanks. I'd rather be up here in the North where seeing anyone else is basically impossible. Isolation can be quite wonderful at times, then again, I do enjoy the ability that towns provide for me to bike to get Asian food. Thats always nice.

I have also started flying a bit up here. I've decided to get my pilots license. On the 4th of July I zipped a plane through a tight mountain pass hitting tons of typical mountain turbulence. It was exhilirating to say the least. I felt sooo very alive in that moment as I approached for landing, that I knew it was something I had to do. Well land the plane of course... but also become a pilot. Maybe I'll even do that for a career someday. Afterall, not alot of Anthropology factories are opening up in this economy.

Still have to figure out what I'm doing post-Alaska. I know it'll involve spearfishing. I need some beach bumming time. Really thinking about Papua New Guinea. Who knows? Such a big world, and only one life to explore it. Pity. I'll still never quit staring into that new horizon.

Considering the heart of Asia

After conversing with a fellow traveler that I work with, I discovered his amazing ability to travel far cheaper than even I have in the past. By living out of old grocery bags, Willy the surfer has been able to work as a part time fisherman in Mexico and surf his days away on the beach, for next to nothing. Never traveling with a guidebook, rather dressing bummy and living like the locals, he has been able to travel for extended periods of time on next to nothing. His advice has been similar towards me. Live in total poverty.

The advice is legit. Most explorers through the 19th and 20th centuries did it to blend in, disappear, and gain access to the areas that were off limits.

Granted I have always traveled on the cheap. I only spent 5 grand the summer that I went to 8 countries in Asia, several thousand miles by rail. I keep thinking to myself as of late, that the working holiday visas in Australia aren't for me right now. I've already done that sorta thing, I want to really dive into a world that I can somewhat blend into, and yet get a true adventure out of. Central Asia seems to be calling me. Who goes to Uzbekistan for vacation? Turkmenistan? What about Kyrgyzstan? Can most people even find those countries on the map? They are in the old route of Marco Polo, so truthfully it cant be all that bad. Ah how I'd love to return to Mongolia!

Thats why that part of the world is appealing to me now. Its dangerous yes, blah blah State Department says dont go because of terrorists, dictators, and maybe one or two are at war. Theres bears in Alaska, they eat people sometimes. Everyplace has its downfall. Kansas had country music, which is dangerous too. So what. Who seriously goes to these places? They are not on the backpacker trail, thats for sure. If I avoid using a Lonely Planet, live and dress like the locales, and ditch most of my trendy backpacking gear, nobody will know. The giant beard will make me look more local than most. I'm now seriously considering this as my next destination. I dont know yet of course, I need to think about things and plan out. Should I go right after I leave Alaska, it'll be winter in central Asia, making for a frigid trip. Perhaps thats a good thing.

My mind plays games with my heart. Unknown areas on maps, areas that I know little about, areas that arent visited... they all draw me.

Whats Bishkek like? I'd sure like to find out.

Finding myself in the books I read

The time since my last post has been great. We finally started rafting down the Koyukuk River, which had previously been too high. The areas mountains surround in a canopy of green, rocky peaks which still have a slight dusting of snow. It wont be long before thats gone too. Glimpsed a moose this week, who had a puzzled look at us as we floated by on our blue contraption.

Finally saw a grizzly bear going for a jog next to a lake as I drove by. This was cool, although not an adventure by any means. You've got to be in their environment to really appreciate it, a drive by glimpse is only the beginning.

We also have the worst mosquitos I've ever seen. When I heard the "mozzies" were bad here, I figured yeah, just like the other 19 countries I've been to. Everybody says that. Huh. Not here, I've seen swarms into the hundreds over myself, not even in tropical jungles on the equator have I seen that sorta thing. Oh well. I wear a bug headnet/jacket combo religously now, it just goes with the terriotory I suppose.

I've found myself reading alot, more than I thought I would here. It wont be long and I'll need to order more books off Amazon. Until then I've got a few more expedition story kinda books, all feeding my desire to adventure. Although Alaska is prime for many such pursuits, I already find myself desiring whatever is over that next ridge, next hill, next border. I find my own feelings written in the memoirs of the explorers and adventurers who went before me, whether in the pages of T.E. Lawrence or Sven Hedin. Tristan in "Legends of the Fall" comes to mind. This is only a subtle sign to me that I will go galivanting off once more after Alaska, that a wild heart is a truely hard thing to tame.

Where that shall be, I know not, and that is the first step in any adventure... going into the unknown.

Adapting to my new Arctic home

Its been a while since I could blog, most days my gmail and blog site time out due to the satellite internet up here.

Anyways my first two weeks have been amazing. I've been fine tuning the details of my new job, its been going quite well. I've really enjoyed the job so far, and most of my co workers have been pretty cool. Its been nice to be away from the city, so peaceful as I think it should be. I'd had a fascination with Wiseman before I came to Alaska, and now I'm fully in love with it. Its a town captured in the late 1800s in many respects, people living in log cabins doing the subsistence living thing- hunting and growing all their own food. Sourdoughs as they're called up here are the kinda people I want to hang out with. I have profound respect for them and a desire to learn their skills, if not else casually, but perhaps to use on my own one day. Who knows? (They did call me "mountain man Norris" at Washburn)

I've also gotten to go on a few little trips up to Atigun pass and Anituvik village inside Gates of the Arctic National Park. They were alot of fun, and for "touristy" things to do, alot of fun. Pictures will be up on facebook soon I hope.

I've done some hiking, seen a little game but not much. I took my shotgun along which was extra weight, but then again, had I needed it, it would have proved its worth. Naturally I will keep taking it along. The quiet satisfaction of climbing mountains around here has been profound, the area's scenery is simply epic. I cant express in words the natural beauty of this area, so free of the outside world and far removed from the hassles and business of the outside. Its great. I hadnt realized how much I enjoy, and missed camp life until I got here. Rustic Pathways in Fiji didnt count, it was so loud and packed with little retreat into the wild. Alaska is so refreshingly different, I'm in a sea of wilderness, just prime for the hiking, fishing, mountain climbing, and more importantly meditating on the deeper nature of all that there is in life. My heart is so alive in this place, just as it was meant to, simply living out the next epic story in this journey...

Learning how to be Alaskan

I've spent the past few hours learning how to drive all over again. With roads that resemble the 3rd world where i'll be responsible to take up to 15 people on the Dalton highway, its alot to learn to do safely. Technical driving sounds pretty cool though. I also got to chill with the company bush pilots last night when I first arrived. Once they found out I brought a gun up, I was in the club it seemed. We wined and dined on cheese until 2 am, the bright sun giving me energy to stay up and enjoy my new home.

This place is awesome, the scenery is fantastic and I'm so ready to fully embrace my life up here!

Long week to hike and prepare for Alaska

This week has been tiring, yet exhilarating. After leaving a little past midnight from Topeka on graduation night, I drove to Carrollton, KY to meet up with my buddy Craig from Fiji. We proceeded to hike into Smoky Mountain National Park, going between Tennessee and North Carolina numerous times. The hike was strenuous as I'd yet found my hiking legs for this season. Nonetheless the scenery and weather couldn't have been better. It was a good time to reconnect with my old friend who shares many of the same passions that I do.

After our 20 something mile loop, we found our last mile hiking out corrupted by hordes of old tourists, the stench of civilization at its peak. We quickly drove away, only to bathe for the first time at the visitors center which once again was crammed with people who likely couldn't hike a small hill and had probably only spent a few minutes actually looking at the smoky mountains between their camcorder shots and cheesy group photos. Oh well. In the wilderness of the A.T., the greatest trail in the world perhaps, we met a good number of thru-hikers who made me dream of the day when I accomplish the great 2100 mile trek from Georgia to Maine.

Otherwise I simply have a little more packing to do after Steve-O's wedding tonight. I leave in the afternoon for Alaska and will be starting my staff training on Sunday. Very excited, just wishing that after having gone on 4 major international multi-month trips I would have learned to pack before the night I'm leaving. lol. Thus is life.

Until next time,
Phil

Leaving College for the Unknown

Those that know me are probably laughing. The night of my college graduation I'm not partying with my classmates anymore, I'm off towards Tennessee to hike the Smoky mountains for a week. Thus is life I suppose.

Today was a great day. I'm so thankful for my friends and the good times we've shared through these past 4 years in College. I head off now to discover the next step in my destiny, in hopes of changing this world for the better and enjoying the adventure life provides when we step out of our comfort zones and life the way we were really meant to. Thank you all so much who have cheered me on these past few years, I'm a better person for having been an Ichabod and having shared the ups and downs of college life with you all.

Should I not die by bear mauling, I would very much like to see you all in the fall while I'm in transition to whatever travel is in store for me after Alaska. Until then, keep in touch and all the best.

Cheers, Phil Norris