After what in many regards has been the longest ride of my life, I'm here, finally, in Bayan Olgii. From Moron I hitched with a guy driving a tourist jeep home to Tsaaganuur lake who knew the owener of the guest ger that I was staying in. That ride was fun as Ega was an enthusiastic driver and willing to try anything to communicate with me. He wanted to talk to me about everything from American Indians to International wrestling, so it made for a good 7 hour ride together. Along the road we saw another vehicle heading in the westward direction, the only one seen for 3 hours at least, asked where they were going, and I hopped in with them. On our way to Tsonsonchendal the ride was grueling with several breakdowns. At 2am the ball bearing in the socket that holds the tire in place busted, making the vehicle un usable. In Mongolia with its lack of anything resembling a road this isnt a problem, so a twist of wire we were going again. We spent 3 hours sleeping in somebody's room with carpet on the floor seemingly for travelers, then found a welder in some tiny village. What would have cost $500 in the USA to fix on a car was a quick 90 minute welding job in Mongolia. Local price: $4. No the alignment wasnt set or anything like that. But hey, its Mongolia! Who cares? After that it was another 8 hours to town.
I checked into an hourly rate hotel, excited that for the first time in my life I'd be staying in one considering their reputation. Instead I found that the bus to Ulangom that I intended to hop onto wasnt arriving in the 5-6 hours that I'd been told, but 30 minutes after my arrival, it was there. So my hourly rate room cost me nothing, because hey, I wasnt there an hour! lol Bummed I didnt get to nap which I desperately sought, I got on to find my seat the one facing the entire bus. Naturally bored Mongolians got excited when they realized on their marathon 3 day bus ride, there was now a foreign guy who spoke Mongol on board. This resulted in conversations that lacked substance perhaps, but not flair. I was asked about everything under the sun, including my religion. I replied in my poor Mongolian... "Yes Jesus. I love him. He is my big friend." Because of the remote location of the bus in Western Mongolia, I think that one sorta fulfilled that whole "Go to the ends of the earth with the gospel" thing. Perhaps not. But the way the Mongolian translated, basically I called Jesus a big fat guy. I dont know the Mongol word for God. Oh well. I hope Jesus will forgive me, I'm sure in reality he's quite buff. Later I was asked to sing, so I sang the only song I know fully... "Three Little Birds" by Bob Marley. Encore after encore, I went for what I though would be humorous as no English speaker was on board. I sang the Kazak National Anthem from Borat. A few people laughed when they understood me singing "Kazakhstan" but beyond that, I got away with a little humerous faux pas.
Anyway after a 14 hour ride to Ulangom, I arrived in need of a shower and bed. 3 days without sleep or shower will wear down the weariest of travelers into nothing. I found a hotel and was offered Aral, Mongolian milk curds that normally are a gross yellow color. I can stomach them with tea alright, but the green mold on them kept my eating to only one. I spent the next 10 hours in pain on both fronts, sick as a dog. 3 days in the town to fully recover, which were all boring as I stayed in my sleeping bag reading.
Life Lesson: Dont eat Moldy milk curds!
I found another vehicle on my 3rd day in Ulangom at the market going to a coal mining village called Batgor. I hitched with those guys for 4 hours which was also humorous. The guy in the shotgun seat insisted on playing and discusing a wide range of American and European music, usually techno or pop. He had me explain the lyrics and act out anything I didnt know the words for livened up a dull drive. This chubby Mongol dude was like a kid in the candy store when I explained Michael Jackson's words and "Dont cry on my shoulder". Bizarre. Lastly I made it to the coal mine, found a truck hauling coal to Bayan Olgii. It was a bumpy 8 hours with 4 breakdowns, a stop at 11pm to climb down a cliff to collect some kind of orange bitter berries I didnt end up liking, and fortunently, one breakdown occured just in front of 6 Mongolian herders wrangling their horses. That I admit was really cool to watch.
So now I'm here. I made it to the Kazak west. Its like a different country, the people, the food, the language. Everything is Central Asia. I'm pouring over maps and talking to locals to determine my next hike, perhaps a summit of the highest mountain in Mongolia. I dont know yet, but with a short time left and even shorter funds, I'm just going to make the most of being here, at the end of the world.
Friday, September 10, 2010
Friday, September 3, 2010
Across the Wild west of Mongolia
So lots has happened since I last updated... So here goes nothing.
After coming back from Russia I got my 90 day visa for Americans with a few hickups. Because I'd worked in Mongolia previously, I begged and with the help of my Mongolian friend Bayanzuul, I was able to get 70 days as a tourist. Any more and I've got problems, so unless I decided to stay and work, I'm outta Mongolia in November. Or going on another visa run.
I started my journey west after a few days stuck in UB, I took the overnight train to Erdenet-"Mongolia's nicest small town". Eh. I was suprised and bored quickly. I arrived and met a super nice French guy on the minibus we had to take from the train station into town, we got soaked running through town so he invited me to his place, made me breakfast and let me have a shower in his apartment. He then refered me to a cheap hotel in town, and by afternoon, the skies had cleared completely so I went for a small hike next to the largest copper mine in Asia (Maybe the world?). I then took a marathon 16 hour minibus ride to Moron, arriving at 3 am I ended up camping outside town at the gas station. Originally I intended to string my hammock up on some gas pipes, the guards were okay with this, but when the Manager came along... all bets were off. Oh well. Maybe he saved my life. Who knows? I ended up sharing the tent of a Japanese guy who was in the same boat as me, nice gesture considering we never asked each other our names. To this day, I dont know who my random Japanese tent buddy is. Oh well, live long and prosper my friend.
I got up to Khatgal, next to Khovsgul lake. I spent a day in town, organized my horses with a local family, which is far better than using the services of a place like MS Guest House. Far over rated, over priced, and the money doesnt go into the local economy much. (More about my disgust for them later...) I did an 8 day trip with my guide Baigee, which was simply amazing. We saw only a few fellow riders in passing or some days, no one at all, for 7 days. The mountains were gorgeous, colors of fall seeping in daily.
The last day as we neared town, its only inevitable that civilization creeps in on you. Alas, my 7 nights camping under the stars, in an untouched, wild land, was exactly what I needed. Refreshing to be in the saddle, living my dream. Although it wasnt across the whole of Mongolia, it was far better with a guide, allowing me to sleep in a bit, and allowing me to only be thrown off once during our ride. Without anybody to help catch the horses when they run, or when you're thrown, would simply prove to be disasterous out here. I still hope to someday do my grand Mongol horse trip, I'll just simply have to find someone to accompany me. (Any beautiful single ladies interested? Please send your CV with photos, references, etc.)
After my ride I went back into town, had a hot shower, then headed out for the east side of the lake. After 7 hours walk I found an isolated beach with tons of firewood, and made my camp. It was so nice I stayed a second day just because, then a third. If not for lack of food, I would have stayed longer. Just me, my books, my fire, and the odds and ends that I found on the beach. A paddle, beachball, precut logs to make a table and chair were some of my finds. Had I more rope, I fantasized about building a raft and making my way back to Khatgal by boat, afterall I had the paddle. Too bad I didnt, would have made a great story.
I went back to town for a last time, tried to get a shower at MS Guesthouse only to be snubbed when the owner found out I'd gone to a local family for horses, cutting out the middle man and saving myself loads of money. Only one advantage of speaking Mongolian. Found an elusive public bathhouse instead and still got clean, but here in Mongolia, dont be surprised if you spend 4 hours in a day trying to find a shower. Patience my boy, patience.
So I got on the bus this morning, and am now in Moron, Mongolia once more. I'm finding out that its quite difficult to take the route I intended to Ulaangom. Instead of a bus, hitch hiking is my best bet, if I can even get that. Transport simply doesnt flow that way... But its worth a shot. I need the adventure, so far this trip has been challenging tourism, nothing more.
I felt challenged and grew out at the lake. I thought a lot about how I want to write my book, frame it, and poetically write it. This blog at least, isnt poetic. Its just informational and to the point, killing some time here in Moron. Because popular opinion aside, theres just not much going on here. I'm already craving hoping into the back of a truck for the possible 48 to 72 hours it will take to get 300 something miles to Ulaangom. The roads are just that bad. Oh wait, forgive me, the dirt tracks that go in every direction and supposedly get you further west at some point. That way I mean. Oh well. Anything going west on the compass is good enough for me at this point.
Westward ho!
After coming back from Russia I got my 90 day visa for Americans with a few hickups. Because I'd worked in Mongolia previously, I begged and with the help of my Mongolian friend Bayanzuul, I was able to get 70 days as a tourist. Any more and I've got problems, so unless I decided to stay and work, I'm outta Mongolia in November. Or going on another visa run.
I started my journey west after a few days stuck in UB, I took the overnight train to Erdenet-"Mongolia's nicest small town". Eh. I was suprised and bored quickly. I arrived and met a super nice French guy on the minibus we had to take from the train station into town, we got soaked running through town so he invited me to his place, made me breakfast and let me have a shower in his apartment. He then refered me to a cheap hotel in town, and by afternoon, the skies had cleared completely so I went for a small hike next to the largest copper mine in Asia (Maybe the world?). I then took a marathon 16 hour minibus ride to Moron, arriving at 3 am I ended up camping outside town at the gas station. Originally I intended to string my hammock up on some gas pipes, the guards were okay with this, but when the Manager came along... all bets were off. Oh well. Maybe he saved my life. Who knows? I ended up sharing the tent of a Japanese guy who was in the same boat as me, nice gesture considering we never asked each other our names. To this day, I dont know who my random Japanese tent buddy is. Oh well, live long and prosper my friend.
I got up to Khatgal, next to Khovsgul lake. I spent a day in town, organized my horses with a local family, which is far better than using the services of a place like MS Guest House. Far over rated, over priced, and the money doesnt go into the local economy much. (More about my disgust for them later...) I did an 8 day trip with my guide Baigee, which was simply amazing. We saw only a few fellow riders in passing or some days, no one at all, for 7 days. The mountains were gorgeous, colors of fall seeping in daily.
The last day as we neared town, its only inevitable that civilization creeps in on you. Alas, my 7 nights camping under the stars, in an untouched, wild land, was exactly what I needed. Refreshing to be in the saddle, living my dream. Although it wasnt across the whole of Mongolia, it was far better with a guide, allowing me to sleep in a bit, and allowing me to only be thrown off once during our ride. Without anybody to help catch the horses when they run, or when you're thrown, would simply prove to be disasterous out here. I still hope to someday do my grand Mongol horse trip, I'll just simply have to find someone to accompany me. (Any beautiful single ladies interested? Please send your CV with photos, references, etc.)
After my ride I went back into town, had a hot shower, then headed out for the east side of the lake. After 7 hours walk I found an isolated beach with tons of firewood, and made my camp. It was so nice I stayed a second day just because, then a third. If not for lack of food, I would have stayed longer. Just me, my books, my fire, and the odds and ends that I found on the beach. A paddle, beachball, precut logs to make a table and chair were some of my finds. Had I more rope, I fantasized about building a raft and making my way back to Khatgal by boat, afterall I had the paddle. Too bad I didnt, would have made a great story.
I went back to town for a last time, tried to get a shower at MS Guesthouse only to be snubbed when the owner found out I'd gone to a local family for horses, cutting out the middle man and saving myself loads of money. Only one advantage of speaking Mongolian. Found an elusive public bathhouse instead and still got clean, but here in Mongolia, dont be surprised if you spend 4 hours in a day trying to find a shower. Patience my boy, patience.
So I got on the bus this morning, and am now in Moron, Mongolia once more. I'm finding out that its quite difficult to take the route I intended to Ulaangom. Instead of a bus, hitch hiking is my best bet, if I can even get that. Transport simply doesnt flow that way... But its worth a shot. I need the adventure, so far this trip has been challenging tourism, nothing more.
I felt challenged and grew out at the lake. I thought a lot about how I want to write my book, frame it, and poetically write it. This blog at least, isnt poetic. Its just informational and to the point, killing some time here in Moron. Because popular opinion aside, theres just not much going on here. I'm already craving hoping into the back of a truck for the possible 48 to 72 hours it will take to get 300 something miles to Ulaangom. The roads are just that bad. Oh wait, forgive me, the dirt tracks that go in every direction and supposedly get you further west at some point. That way I mean. Oh well. Anything going west on the compass is good enough for me at this point.
Westward ho!
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