Friday, September 3, 2010

Across the Wild west of Mongolia

So lots has happened since I last updated... So here goes nothing.
After coming back from Russia I got my 90 day visa for Americans with a few hickups. Because I'd worked in Mongolia previously, I begged and with the help of my Mongolian friend Bayanzuul, I was able to get 70 days as a tourist. Any more and I've got problems, so unless I decided to stay and work, I'm outta Mongolia in November. Or going on another visa run.

I started my journey west after a few days stuck in UB, I took the overnight train to Erdenet-"Mongolia's nicest small town". Eh. I was suprised and bored quickly. I arrived and met a super nice French guy on the minibus we had to take from the train station into town, we got soaked running through town so he invited me to his place, made me breakfast and let me have a shower in his apartment. He then refered me to a cheap hotel in town, and by afternoon, the skies had cleared completely so I went for a small hike next to the largest copper mine in Asia (Maybe the world?). I then took a marathon 16 hour minibus ride to Moron, arriving at 3 am I ended up camping outside town at the gas station. Originally I intended to string my hammock up on some gas pipes, the guards were okay with this, but when the Manager came along... all bets were off. Oh well. Maybe he saved my life. Who knows? I ended up sharing the tent of a Japanese guy who was in the same boat as me, nice gesture considering we never asked each other our names. To this day, I dont know who my random Japanese tent buddy is. Oh well, live long and prosper my friend.

I got up to Khatgal, next to Khovsgul lake. I spent a day in town, organized my horses with a local family, which is far better than using the services of a place like MS Guest House. Far over rated, over priced, and the money doesnt go into the local economy much. (More about my disgust for them later...) I did an 8 day trip with my guide Baigee, which was simply amazing. We saw only a few fellow riders in passing or some days, no one at all, for 7 days. The mountains were gorgeous, colors of fall seeping in daily.

The last day as we neared town, its only inevitable that civilization creeps in on you. Alas, my 7 nights camping under the stars, in an untouched, wild land, was exactly what I needed. Refreshing to be in the saddle, living my dream. Although it wasnt across the whole of Mongolia, it was far better with a guide, allowing me to sleep in a bit, and allowing me to only be thrown off once during our ride. Without anybody to help catch the horses when they run, or when you're thrown, would simply prove to be disasterous out here. I still hope to someday do my grand Mongol horse trip, I'll just simply have to find someone to accompany me. (Any beautiful single ladies interested? Please send your CV with photos, references, etc.)

After my ride I went back into town, had a hot shower, then headed out for the east side of the lake. After 7 hours walk I found an isolated beach with tons of firewood, and made my camp. It was so nice I stayed a second day just because, then a third. If not for lack of food, I would have stayed longer. Just me, my books, my fire, and the odds and ends that I found on the beach. A paddle, beachball, precut logs to make a table and chair were some of my finds. Had I more rope, I fantasized about building a raft and making my way back to Khatgal by boat, afterall I had the paddle. Too bad I didnt, would have made a great story.

I went back to town for a last time, tried to get a shower at MS Guesthouse only to be snubbed when the owner found out I'd gone to a local family for horses, cutting out the middle man and saving myself loads of money. Only one advantage of speaking Mongolian. Found an elusive public bathhouse instead and still got clean, but here in Mongolia, dont be surprised if you spend 4 hours in a day trying to find a shower. Patience my boy, patience.

So I got on the bus this morning, and am now in Moron, Mongolia once more. I'm finding out that its quite difficult to take the route I intended to Ulaangom. Instead of a bus, hitch hiking is my best bet, if I can even get that. Transport simply doesnt flow that way... But its worth a shot. I need the adventure, so far this trip has been challenging tourism, nothing more.

I felt challenged and grew out at the lake. I thought a lot about how I want to write my book, frame it, and poetically write it. This blog at least, isnt poetic. Its just informational and to the point, killing some time here in Moron. Because popular opinion aside, theres just not much going on here. I'm already craving hoping into the back of a truck for the possible 48 to 72 hours it will take to get 300 something miles to Ulaangom. The roads are just that bad. Oh wait, forgive me, the dirt tracks that go in every direction and supposedly get you further west at some point. That way I mean. Oh well. Anything going west on the compass is good enough for me at this point.

Westward ho!

1 comment:

  1. Hey Phil, how far west are you now? I hope you found a bit of joy along the way! --gm

    ReplyDelete