I'm a lazy blogger

So after finally arriving in Western Mongolia, I had once again the adventure of a lifetime... I hiked for days and found myself horse tramping with a Kazak family that took me in. After weeks in rural Mongolia, I returned to Ulanbaatar by getting a ride with members of the Mongol Rally in their firetruck. So yes, I rode a firetruck across Mongolia. It was the perfect cap off to a grand trip around the world. I got back to UB, flew home, then started working on my book. I was distracted for a few weeks by driving up to Alaska on a whim with a friend, but am now once again in Kansas. I appologize to any who actually read my blog as I've not updated in about 3 months... but I have been somewhat faithfully writing my book. It should be finished this spring, which means you'll be paying roughly $12.99 for the paperback copy of my stories. Trust me it'll be worth it. But for now I'm just substitute teaching in my hometown of Topeka, KS. I'm also bored because without a regular schedule, some days are dull. But those days I write, which gets my desire going all the more, and I dream of the next place. It wont be long until I'm off again. Until the next one my friends, go out and enjoy your own adventures, wherever you may be in this wide world!

Wild paths towards the end of the road

After what in many regards has been the longest ride of my life, I'm here, finally, in Bayan Olgii. From Moron I hitched with a guy driving a tourist jeep home to Tsaaganuur lake who knew the owener of the guest ger that I was staying in. That ride was fun as Ega was an enthusiastic driver and willing to try anything to communicate with me. He wanted to talk to me about everything from American Indians to International wrestling, so it made for a good 7 hour ride together. Along the road we saw another vehicle heading in the westward direction, the only one seen for 3 hours at least, asked where they were going, and I hopped in with them. On our way to Tsonsonchendal the ride was grueling with several breakdowns. At 2am the ball bearing in the socket that holds the tire in place busted, making the vehicle un usable. In Mongolia with its lack of anything resembling a road this isnt a problem, so a twist of wire we were going again. We spent 3 hours sleeping in somebody's room with carpet on the floor seemingly for travelers, then found a welder in some tiny village. What would have cost $500 in the USA to fix on a car was a quick 90 minute welding job in Mongolia. Local price: $4. No the alignment wasnt set or anything like that. But hey, its Mongolia! Who cares? After that it was another 8 hours to town.

I checked into an hourly rate hotel, excited that for the first time in my life I'd be staying in one considering their reputation. Instead I found that the bus to Ulangom that I intended to hop onto wasnt arriving in the 5-6 hours that I'd been told, but 30 minutes after my arrival, it was there. So my hourly rate room cost me nothing, because hey, I wasnt there an hour! lol Bummed I didnt get to nap which I desperately sought, I got on to find my seat the one facing the entire bus. Naturally bored Mongolians got excited when they realized on their marathon 3 day bus ride, there was now a foreign guy who spoke Mongol on board. This resulted in conversations that lacked substance perhaps, but not flair. I was asked about everything under the sun, including my religion. I replied in my poor Mongolian... "Yes Jesus. I love him. He is my big friend." Because of the remote location of the bus in Western Mongolia, I think that one sorta fulfilled that whole "Go to the ends of the earth with the gospel" thing. Perhaps not. But the way the Mongolian translated, basically I called Jesus a big fat guy. I dont know the Mongol word for God. Oh well. I hope Jesus will forgive me, I'm sure in reality he's quite buff. Later I was asked to sing, so I sang the only song I know fully... "Three Little Birds" by Bob Marley. Encore after encore, I went for what I though would be humorous as no English speaker was on board. I sang the Kazak National Anthem from Borat. A few people laughed when they understood me singing "Kazakhstan" but beyond that, I got away with a little humerous faux pas.

Anyway after a 14 hour ride to Ulangom, I arrived in need of a shower and bed. 3 days without sleep or shower will wear down the weariest of travelers into nothing. I found a hotel and was offered Aral, Mongolian milk curds that normally are a gross yellow color. I can stomach them with tea alright, but the green mold on them kept my eating to only one. I spent the next 10 hours in pain on both fronts, sick as a dog. 3 days in the town to fully recover, which were all boring as I stayed in my sleeping bag reading.

Life Lesson: Dont eat Moldy milk curds!

I found another vehicle on my 3rd day in Ulangom at the market going to a coal mining village called Batgor. I hitched with those guys for 4 hours which was also humorous. The guy in the shotgun seat insisted on playing and discusing a wide range of American and European music, usually techno or pop. He had me explain the lyrics and act out anything I didnt know the words for livened up a dull drive. This chubby Mongol dude was like a kid in the candy store when I explained Michael Jackson's words and "Dont cry on my shoulder". Bizarre. Lastly I made it to the coal mine, found a truck hauling coal to Bayan Olgii. It was a bumpy 8 hours with 4 breakdowns, a stop at 11pm to climb down a cliff to collect some kind of orange bitter berries I didnt end up liking, and fortunently, one breakdown occured just in front of 6 Mongolian herders wrangling their horses. That I admit was really cool to watch.

So now I'm here. I made it to the Kazak west. Its like a different country, the people, the food, the language. Everything is Central Asia. I'm pouring over maps and talking to locals to determine my next hike, perhaps a summit of the highest mountain in Mongolia. I dont know yet, but with a short time left and even shorter funds, I'm just going to make the most of being here, at the end of the world.

Across the Wild west of Mongolia

So lots has happened since I last updated... So here goes nothing.
After coming back from Russia I got my 90 day visa for Americans with a few hickups. Because I'd worked in Mongolia previously, I begged and with the help of my Mongolian friend Bayanzuul, I was able to get 70 days as a tourist. Any more and I've got problems, so unless I decided to stay and work, I'm outta Mongolia in November. Or going on another visa run.

I started my journey west after a few days stuck in UB, I took the overnight train to Erdenet-"Mongolia's nicest small town". Eh. I was suprised and bored quickly. I arrived and met a super nice French guy on the minibus we had to take from the train station into town, we got soaked running through town so he invited me to his place, made me breakfast and let me have a shower in his apartment. He then refered me to a cheap hotel in town, and by afternoon, the skies had cleared completely so I went for a small hike next to the largest copper mine in Asia (Maybe the world?). I then took a marathon 16 hour minibus ride to Moron, arriving at 3 am I ended up camping outside town at the gas station. Originally I intended to string my hammock up on some gas pipes, the guards were okay with this, but when the Manager came along... all bets were off. Oh well. Maybe he saved my life. Who knows? I ended up sharing the tent of a Japanese guy who was in the same boat as me, nice gesture considering we never asked each other our names. To this day, I dont know who my random Japanese tent buddy is. Oh well, live long and prosper my friend.

I got up to Khatgal, next to Khovsgul lake. I spent a day in town, organized my horses with a local family, which is far better than using the services of a place like MS Guest House. Far over rated, over priced, and the money doesnt go into the local economy much. (More about my disgust for them later...) I did an 8 day trip with my guide Baigee, which was simply amazing. We saw only a few fellow riders in passing or some days, no one at all, for 7 days. The mountains were gorgeous, colors of fall seeping in daily.

The last day as we neared town, its only inevitable that civilization creeps in on you. Alas, my 7 nights camping under the stars, in an untouched, wild land, was exactly what I needed. Refreshing to be in the saddle, living my dream. Although it wasnt across the whole of Mongolia, it was far better with a guide, allowing me to sleep in a bit, and allowing me to only be thrown off once during our ride. Without anybody to help catch the horses when they run, or when you're thrown, would simply prove to be disasterous out here. I still hope to someday do my grand Mongol horse trip, I'll just simply have to find someone to accompany me. (Any beautiful single ladies interested? Please send your CV with photos, references, etc.)

After my ride I went back into town, had a hot shower, then headed out for the east side of the lake. After 7 hours walk I found an isolated beach with tons of firewood, and made my camp. It was so nice I stayed a second day just because, then a third. If not for lack of food, I would have stayed longer. Just me, my books, my fire, and the odds and ends that I found on the beach. A paddle, beachball, precut logs to make a table and chair were some of my finds. Had I more rope, I fantasized about building a raft and making my way back to Khatgal by boat, afterall I had the paddle. Too bad I didnt, would have made a great story.

I went back to town for a last time, tried to get a shower at MS Guesthouse only to be snubbed when the owner found out I'd gone to a local family for horses, cutting out the middle man and saving myself loads of money. Only one advantage of speaking Mongolian. Found an elusive public bathhouse instead and still got clean, but here in Mongolia, dont be surprised if you spend 4 hours in a day trying to find a shower. Patience my boy, patience.

So I got on the bus this morning, and am now in Moron, Mongolia once more. I'm finding out that its quite difficult to take the route I intended to Ulaangom. Instead of a bus, hitch hiking is my best bet, if I can even get that. Transport simply doesnt flow that way... But its worth a shot. I need the adventure, so far this trip has been challenging tourism, nothing more.

I felt challenged and grew out at the lake. I thought a lot about how I want to write my book, frame it, and poetically write it. This blog at least, isnt poetic. Its just informational and to the point, killing some time here in Moron. Because popular opinion aside, theres just not much going on here. I'm already craving hoping into the back of a truck for the possible 48 to 72 hours it will take to get 300 something miles to Ulaangom. The roads are just that bad. Oh wait, forgive me, the dirt tracks that go in every direction and supposedly get you further west at some point. That way I mean. Oh well. Anything going west on the compass is good enough for me at this point.

Westward ho!

In the land of the Ruskies

So without question, Russia has been interesting. I came here on a visa run with the intention of working a bit at a summer camp, then going back to Mongolia after its all said and done. Russia has been, well, everything I would have expected. In the course of travel, one quickly learns to throw the stereotypes out and expect the unexpected. In the strangest turn of fate, Russia has been the exception to that rule. Siberia is, well, actually Siberia. No its not cold right now and the people are warm and kind. But everything else, is well, Russian. In the way movies, books, stories I've heard about Russia were told. Soviet this, Soviet that. Vodka. Kisses by bear hugging babuskas. Borsh. "Back in Communist times" stories. Russia words such as "Davai" that I'd heard in a thousand military films. Dudes in blue/white striped submarine shirts. Mullets proudly worn. Every joke told to me making me think of one guy... Borat. All this said, I'm really enjoying Russia. Its not negative criticism by any means, its just calling it what it is. In all its humor of the grandest stereotypes.

The camp was good. I spent it working a few hours a day, picking up trash and one day being the fire guy, collecting firewood and making sure the fire was big enough for those cooking. Simple enough work, but also had the realization that camps truely are the same wherever you go. The culture of a camp, the events that take place... The pranks, the romances, the food is almost a cultural universal. I loved it but did grow tired of cleaning up hundreds of vodka bottles from a bunch of drunksies. Maybe I'll go back, who knows. I've got 10 days left on my visa, then its back to Mongolia. The change of pace is nice, but after living in Mongolia, its hard being in a new country that I dont speak the language. Not that I cant understand when they talk about me the "americansky". Alas, being here in great, Russia is just one of those places that well, its there, and you ought to go to because, well, its there, and they have perhaps one of the finest collections of 1980's mullets left in the world. And more techno than you can handle.

The Beginning or the end of Mongolia?

Well the end has finally come. In short, I've taught another month's time. Details are basically this, I had to leave Mongolia to come right back for a visa change, going from Business to Tourist is complicated so I had to arrange either a Chinese or Russian visa. I've done China 3 times and I hate it, so why not Russia? Things worked out well. If you're unaware of couchsurfing.org check it out. I had a Dutch couchsurfer stay with me who is organizing a volunteer camp at Lake Baikal this summer. Free room and board next to the lake in return for a few hours of work per day. Great deal really, considering I'll be doing a bit of everything outside in the forest, I'm totally game. I love chopping firewood! Anyway so I'm heading up there and will be couchsurfing with her this weekend. Its a nice change of pace from the classroom. 2 weeks from now I'll probably be back in Mongolia, extending my tourist visa and THEN finally heading off on my Mongol adventure. Nothing works out as it should, its never easy, and more than once you'll find you have to return somewhere due to an insignificant detail arising. Its travel. Its not going to be easy, never fool yourself into thinking it will be.

As for leaving, I'm sad. Seriously considering returning after the summer to teach another six months. I'm torn. I love my life here, then again, with so many loved ones back home that I'm away from and slowly loosing connections with, is it worth it to stay? Sure I can always come back, but it makes it harder with the flights and the cost. One of my favorite travel quotes is simple yet profound "Wherever you are, be there". True to life, work, and of course the journeys that we all take. I've done that in Mongolia, did it in Alaska, did it in College. I was there 100% when I was there. The question that I must decide upon is where do I want to be? Kansas' appeal is simple. People. My people. Mongolia is different and I've enjoyed the expat life. I dont know how it'll turn out.

If all goes to plan, I've got my hammock, a few good books next to one of the most beautiful lakes in the world and a large supply of CLIF bars. Coupled with an easy schedule, hiking boots that need dirtied up, I have the feeling I'll do just fine. Where will I go from here? God only knows.

The end of the Expat life

There is no doubt that my life in Ulan Baatar has been an adventure of sorts, and incredibly fun. I've got exactly 7 days left here as a teacher, and that is indeed bittersweet. I've loved the Mongol life, the ease of city life with the nearby mountains, the random trips to hike, drive a tank, or other randomness. As of late I've hosted many couchsurfers as well, which has livened up my apartment considerably during the weekdays.

As is inherent in any journey, or adventure is the unknown. I've experienced it many times in the nearly full year now that I've been traveling. Counting my time in Alaska - post college, its 13 months total so far. Either way the unknown has crept in again and thwarted many of my ideas. Horses have proven to be more expensive to find than I'd hoped. My visa is expiring at the end of the month, thus a visa run is in order. What to do? Give up? No. But one always must make the best of what they've got. As fate would have it, Russia is next door and I found a free volunteering position up in Siberia. I can do it a few weeks, then return to Mongolia and visit many of the places I wanted to before on my horse ride... but simply convert it to a hike. Yes its not what I set out to do. Yes its more typical for travel in Mongolia. But it is what it is.

As the sun sets on my time in UB, I'm sad. I've enjoyed it. But the open road is another life I enjoy. The unknown. The summer in the Heart of Asia won't dissapoint. No its not what I planned on, but plans fail, they change, they rarely work out as one would hope. They certainly dont work according to plan on a long journey, just ask any 19th century explorer. If you cant find one of those, since chances are that they are probably dead, ask your local backpacker with a lonely planet and a good gap of time. Ask them if it worked like they thought it would. "Nope" is exactly what you'll hear. Unless they speak French, then they'd say "Non."

Travel is often seeing the world not as you thought it was, but as it truly is. Without the preconcieved notions and ideas. In all the wonder and fury, beauty and savageness you could have ever imagined. Well with a week left, I'm going to have fun, run errands, and hopefully figure out a few details. And enjoy a few more cold beers, because I cant lie. Asia is hot.

Teaching on the Wilder Side

Well life in Ulan Baatar has been good. Its warming up now, which means I've had this strange sensation of sweating in the past 2 weeks. I usually cant see my breath and each day results in comfortable strolls outdoors. With less than two months left in Mongolia, I'm really looking forward to this summer. I've been par-oozing the markets for riding gear, and am breaking in a pair of old German army looking riding boots now. All in all things are good, but the longing for the ride cant wait much longer. I'm so very close to a dream that has been 3 years in the making. To come so close now and to fail, would be an epic failure. To not try now, well, that simply cant happen.

As for teaching, its been a good experience. I'm teaching far more upper level courses now which makes for more enjoyable conversation that discussing family members, asking 200 times a day directions to things I already know their location, or asking "Whats your occupation?". That's the basis of a fundamental or level 1/2 English class. Once you get into advanced conversation, you can really learn and connect with the culture. Whether its been asking about Kazakh Marriage traditions, contemporary politics of Mongolia, to do before I die list homework, or other randomness we talk about, teaching is rarely dull. (Then again, any job I have that doesnt involve me wearing a giant mouse costume or flipping burgers, is fun) Been there... Done that.

Anyway I was playing "the adjective game" in which my classes are required to act out an adjective from a long list, then one comes in from the hall to try guessing the adjective based on the actors. This was attempted in by far my worst class, I say worst because its full of students who should be in a lower level and who for the most part are forced to be in there by their parents. I've tried everything known to education to get them involved, or slightly interested in the class. Even talking would be welcome. Nothing had worked until yesterday. The adjective our group chose was "dangerous". When the class for the most part wasn't acting "dangerous" I decided to do something the other foreign teachers had joked about doing. I opened a large window, and hopped onto the ledge outside the building and walked over to another class room, peaked in, and walked back, then climbed back through the window. My 16 and 17 year old students were wide eyed beyond belief. Had their teacher seriously walked out a window to describe something? What is this guy thinking? Well after that, there was interest in the game and people starting acting the other adjectives, such as quiet, exhausted, violent, lazy, serious, etc. So in an odd ball way that will perhaps go down into education theory as either brilliant or slightly deficient to the point of idiotic, I succeeded in getting a class to speak English, so at the end of the day, yep. Its all in a day's work.

Only problem is with teaching ESL... Its not my truest passion. I enjoy conversation classes, I'm paid to talk, and those that know me, know I can talk all day long. But English was never what I really wanted to teach. I remember torturing my Jr. High English teacher, Mr. Pawley. Oh well, I've reaped what I'd sown all those years ago. What I really want to teach are my passions. Anthropology, Travel, Adventure, History, Exploration, Theology, Philosophy, Everything associated with the Wilderness. Ah now if I can find a place to teach those mixed up a bit, I could buy a ranch in the mountains and settle down. Until then... Living it out will have to do. So in the end, teaching English around the world and riding horses into the sunset, means I'm probably doing just that.